In the vast expanse of the Aegean Sea, an island shrouded in a dark and violent past has emerged as an unexpected sanctuary for rare and endangered species. Gyaros, once known as 'Devil Island', has undergone a remarkable transformation, offering a glimpse of hope amidst its tumultuous history.
The Island's Dark Legacy
For decades, Gyaros served as a military prison and naval firing range, a place of exile and punishment. Its red brick prison, visible from a distance, stands as a stark reminder of the island's brutal past. From Roman times to the authoritarian regime and military dictatorship, Gyaros witnessed the suffering of political prisoners, forced labor, and torture.
What many people don't realize is that this island's isolation, a result of its violent history, became its saving grace. The absence of human development created a unique ecosystem, untouched and pristine. It's almost as if nature itself intervened to protect this place, offering a second chance for life to thrive.
A Haven for Rare Seals
In 2004, an amateur photograph changed everything. It depicted a rare sight: a Mediterranean monk seal mother and pup lounging on an open beach in broad daylight. This species, once common, had been driven to the brink of extinction due to hunting and habitat destruction.
The photograph sparked scientific interest, leading to the discovery of a substantial colony of around 70 adult seals on Gyaros. What's truly remarkable is the behavior of these seals. Unlike their counterparts elsewhere, who are tense and alert, the Gyaros seals are relaxed and unbothered by human presence.
Spyros Kotomatas, a biologist, believes the island's long isolation created favorable conditions. Even during its use as a prison and bombing range, the human footprint was concentrated, leaving much of the island undisturbed. The navy's presence also deterred fishing, creating a rich feeding ground for the seals.
Underwater Biodiversity
Gyaros is not just a haven for seals; it's a diverse underwater refuge. Maria Salomidi, a marine biologist, has studied the island's seagrass beds and reefs since 2009. She describes an abundance of sea life, including slipper lobsters, giant devil rays, marine turtles, dolphins, and whales.
The island's remote location and harsh weather conditions have made it difficult to guard against illegal fishing. However, the construction of a remote monitoring system by WWF Greece has helped deter such activities. The system transmits live feeds to Syros, allowing targeted responses when vessels enter the protected zone.
A Home for Shearwaters
In 2015, researchers from WWF discovered another remarkable species on Gyaros: the Yelkouan shearwater. These black-and-white seabirds, roughly the size of a rock pigeon, are long-lived and monogamous, returning to the same partner and nesting site year after year.
The Gyaros colony is the second largest in the world, accounting for 15% of the global population. The inaccessibility of the island's cracks and crevices, a habitat untouched by humans, has allowed these birds to thrive. However, they face threats from introduced rats and feral pigs, which prey on their eggs and chicks.
A Delicate Balance
While Gyaros has become a haven for rare species, it's not without its challenges. The reefs around the island are overgrazed by smaller fish due to overfishing elsewhere, leading to the removal of large predators. Salomidi's team is actively restoring the reefs by planting lab-cultivated algae, but it may take decades to restore the ecosystem fully.
Politically, the situation is also fragile. Despite being designated as a Marine Protected Area, Gyaros has faced pressure from fishing organizations, leading to temporary openings and closures. The government's decision to declare the island a strict no-take zone is a step in the right direction, but scientists remain concerned about the capacity to enforce these protections.
A Call for Action
Gyaros stands as an island of hope, but as Salomidi rightly points out, we need a thousand Gyaroses across Greece. The protection of this island is not enough; a comprehensive plan is needed to manage the wider sea sustainably. The Mediterranean, with its intense human activity and increasing pressures, requires a balanced approach to fishing, shipping, tourism, and conservation.
The participatory process used to design Gyaros' protected area offers a promising model. By bringing together various stakeholders, a collaborative approach can be developed to ensure the long-term survival of these rare species.
As the speedboat turns away from Gyaros, the abandoned prison fades into the distance, but the work to protect this island and its unique ecosystem continues. Gyaros serves as a reminder that even in the darkest of places, nature can find a way to thrive, offering us a chance to learn, adapt, and protect our precious biodiversity.
